So not many people that we talked to had been to Dumaguete - but our holy bible (Lonely Planet's Southeast Asia on a Shoestring) said that it was a big college town just a few clicks away from some amazing hiking. So we decided to go check it out - even if it would just be for a day. We ended up having such a good time that we ended up staying for 4!
We stayed in Harold's Mansion, just outside of the downtown area and the boulevard that runs along the waterfront. We felt so spoiled - we couldn't believe this place. HUGE room with 2 big beds, TV, hot shower, fan, access to a safety deposit box, 30 free minutes of internet a day, free breakfast, and optional laundry services. All for around $8. UHmazing. Beyond that, Harold is a goldmine of information on the region.
The way that Harold's Mansion came about is actually a pretty interesting story....after receiving his 4 year degree from the local university in Dumaguete, he left the Philippines behind to go pursue the "American Dream" in California. He never imagined that a 4 year undergraduate degree would earn him no more than a job cleaning pools for rich old whities. HAH it's like "hmmmm I'm not sure if you are quite right for this job....but ya know...now that I think about it....I have a pool in need of some cleaning...." Can you imagine? Anyway, Harold headed back to the Philippines and, after traveling around to learn more about what makes a successful backpacker's hotel, he borrowed a huge loan from his parents and launched the now extremely successful Harold' Mansion. Beyond that, he has several other properties that he rents out, and is perhaps one of the most well-connected people in the Philippines. Not a bad person to meet...
On our first day there, Harold suggested that we go check out Casaroro falls. We took a Jeepney to Valencia and hiked up this steep road surrounded by little makeshift houses nestled between groves of palm trees. Street dogs snoozed on the hot pavement...cows teathered by their nostrils grazed on the side of the road...and of course, even here up in the mountains, VIDEOKE. (video karaoke). Do you know how bizarre it is to hear ABBA's "Dancing Queen" blasting from a a little shack in the middle of no where? Anway, two hours later, we reached an entrance point to the falls - where you pay the woman that lives there 10 pesos as a visitor's fee. Because the falls had become so popular, they had constructed 300 concrete steps that lead you over the slippery rocks to the waterfall. It was funny, walking along the paved pathway, surrounded by dangling jungle vines, and the sound of the rushing water below, it almost felt like standing in line, waiting for the Indiana Jones ride at Disneyland. HAH Until you hear ABBA again and you snap back to reality. Anyway, the waterfall was amazing!! 100 feet tall! Check it out:
That night we went with Harold to listen to some live music at a bar/restaurant on the waterfront called Hayahay. Had a couple beers, ordered a pizza. Then went to another local bar where you sit on pillows on the floor. Then we met Elain. Comes stumbling drunk out of nowhere, looking at me glazey eyed...he was a friend of Harold's. He said "My name is Elain. It's French." Erik and I introduced ourselves. He told us that he had been drinking since 5pm because he went to a Christmas party. In the Philippines, Christmas is literally celebrated for 2 months, with someone hosting a party nearly every night. His short stature and round face earned him nicknames like "Danny Devito" and "Baby Cute". He dropped the F-bomb every other sentence, even if he didn't mean it. "You are from America? Man, fuck America. Fuck the Philippines too. You are going to Bohol? (the place with all of the cute little furby-like tarsiers). Man, fuck Bohol." After that, he invited us to come diving and see the hoards of barracudas that live in the deep waters just outside of his house. Pointing to himself, he said "This is the man that will show you the barracuda. I want to show you my barracuda." I said, "Hey baby cute, we just met, I don't know if I want to see your barracuda." Behold the drunken Devito (in blue):
The next day, we went snorkeling with Harold, his sister, his niece, and a more sober Elain. People don't go there so much for the beach (black sand), but for the amazing coral reefs. So much better then Moalboal. Angel fish, all sorts of others in psychadelic colors, a turtle 4 feet long (which apparently was "a small one"), huge grouper fish, and the notorious trigger fish. When Erik saw one, he dove down to take a closer look, only as he cleared through the murky water, he realized that the beast also had beastly razor-sharp teeth. As soon as he spotted them, he looked up and saw a Filipino frantically waving his hands. Luckily frantic waving means the same thing to most people in every language....Erik booked it out of there and luckily still has all 10 fingers. I guess they take pretty nasty lock-jawed bites. Yiike.
We had planned on leaving to catch the boat to Siquijor at 6PM, but once we started drinking a couple beers with Harold, and he invited us to stay overnight at his personal mansion, we couldn't refuse. 1 final night in Dumaguete :) We went back to Hayahay to listen to another live band. Harold was so excited that we decided to stay another night, that he kept drinking his beers like water and ended up getting absolutely shitfaced (see pic below). After he fell asleep at the table, Erik and I started trying to figure out how we were going to get the 3 of us back to his place. We didn't even know where he lived. We ended up shaking him awake and throwing him in the back of his car. I would drive him home. But the thing is, this wasn't just a car. This was a beast. A humongous SUV. I could hardly see over the dashboard. Luckily there was hardly any traffic on the road. One of the men from Hayahay helped me back it out so I wouldn't cream the frail old Filipinas selling Balut (eggs with 21 day old chick fetuses inside UGH) on the street. Luckily we could wake Harold up enough to give us directions to his place and we made it home safe. We fell asleep like babies in a cozy bed, spoiled in a nest of down pillows, and caught the boat to Siquijor the next morning.
We partied so hardy in Dumaguete, it feels good to be in quiet little Siquijor now. Harold hooked us up with this amazingly sweet woman named Fides. I have such a hard time saying her name without cracking up because her name is pronounced like "Fetus". Beyond that, the beautiful little cottage that she owns is called Hambilica - which is said "Humbilica" and DEFINITELY sounds like "Umbilical". Hah I crack myself up sometimes. Staying at Umbilical with Fetus. oh goodness...
Anyway...it is probably the best place we have stayed so far...located on a cliff looking over the rocky shore below...surrounded by manicured gardens of local wild plants...little chicks run along the seashell pathways that weave through the gardens. A fatty gecko likes to stick himself to the wall above our door. It's like a little couples' get away. Plus Fides is giving us a great price - 600P per night (about $11). We've just been taking it easy...listening to music, reading, playing cards...we'll probably go swimming later. Just loving the easy life right now. :)
More soon!
Thanks for reading!
xoxo
megan and erik
No comments:
Post a Comment